I’ve been using hard gel to do extensions for many years now and I can attest that they are one of the best ways to create long-lasting, long-lasting manicures. I’ll break down what hard gel extensions are, how they’re applied, their advantages, and potential downsides. Whether you’re considering trying hard gel nails or just curious about the process, read on for an in-depth look at this enhancement technique.
What Are Hard Gel Extensions?
Hard gel is a type of Builder gel used to extend natural nails and create a thicker, durable enhancement. It has a similar chemistry to UV and LED gels but without the tacky inhibition layer.
Hard gel comes in pots rather than polish bottles. It has a thicker, putty-like consistency. The gel is applied over nail tips and sculpted into place. It is then “frozen” to harden it before finishing and shaping.
The finished extensions have a glassy, polished look just like other gel manicures. But hard gel is stiff enough that it doesn’t require a form for support. The rigidness also allows sculpting into extreme lengths or shapes not possible with other gels.
How Are Hard Gel Nail Extensions Applied Using Forms?
Hard gel extensions can be sculpted directly onto the natural nails or applied over nail forms for an ultra-smooth finish:
- Push back and trim cuticles as needed
- Lightly buff natural nails to remove shine and ensure adhesion
- Select the proper tip size and adhere with gel resin glue on the natural nail
- File the underside of the tip so it rests flush against nail plate
- Slide a form under the nail so the well sits perfectly against the tip and finger
- Apply gel bonder to the entire nail and let cure
- Apply a thin gel sealant layer over the natural nail and tip
- Cure the sealant layer briefly
Building Gel Layers
- Scoop a small bead of hard gel into the well of the form
- Use a pre-shaped gel brush to press gel against the sidewalls first
- Slowly work gel towards the center, avoiding air bubbles
- Smooth gel evenly across the nail to meet the edges of the well
- Cure each layer for 30 seconds under LED light
- Remove forms gently once gels are fully set
- Shape and refine the extension edge as needed with gentle filing
- Apply gel sealer and cure for glossy finish
How to Do Extensions Using Hard Gels and Tips?
Hard gel extensions adhered over nail tips is a common application technique. Here are the steps:
- Push back and trim cuticles to expose the natural nail edge
- Lightly buff nails to remove shine and ensure gel adhesion
- Select appropriate tip size and adhere to natural nail edge with gel glue
- File underside of tip so it sits flush against the nail plate
- Apply gel bonder over the entire natural nail and tip
- Let bonder cure under the light
- Scoop a small bead of hard gel onto the nail area
- Use the tail end of gel brush to press it into sidewalls first
- Slowly brush gel towards the center to avoid air bubbles
- Make sure gel extends over tip with no gaps at cuticle or sides
- Cure each layer for 30 seconds under LED light
- Once set, use gentle filing motions to shape and taper the end of the enhancement
- Refine and blend the tip into the natural nail edge
- Avoid excessive thickness at cuticles or sidewalls
- Apply gel sealer or top coat over the finished extension
- Cure to seal in moisture and create shine
- Wipe nail clean of tacky residue
Benefits of Hard Gel Nail Extensions
There are many advantages to hard gel nails compared to other options:
With proper application, hard gels can look remarkably natural. The rigid gel can be sculpted into a variety of edge shapes and lengths. And the glossy finish looks just like healthy natural nails.
Hard gels are thinner and more flexible than acrylic. The finished extensions are very lightweight, avoiding that heavy fake nail feel.
It takes less time to apply and sculpt hard gel than acrylic. No waiting for powders to dry. This makes service time quicker.
Hard gel fills are fast too. No need to soak off and re-apply the entire set each visit. Just fill the grow out and reshape as needed every 2-4 weeks.
Hard gel nails are extremely chip and break resistant. The rigid material and tight bond prevent cracks, breaks or lost tips. Enhancements can last 3-4 weeks of daily wear.
Hard gel extensions can be dissolved off with acetone just like regular gel polish. No excessive filing needed to avoid natural nail damage upon removal.
The gel chemistry creates a tight bond to the nail plate. This prevents the lifting and gaps that allow dirt and bacteria to get trapped under acrylics or other extensions.
Potential Risks of Hard Gel Extensions
While safer than acrylics in many ways, improper hard gel application does pose some risks:
Damage from Excess Filing
Aggressive filing during shaping can overly thin the nails or create microscopic cracks in the plate that lead to breaks.
Heat Spikes During Curing
If technicians cure too thick of gel layers at once, excess heat can damage the nail bed. Thin layers must be used.
Overexposure to UV Light
Technicians need to carefully time UV exposure to avoid burns. LED light reduces this risk. Clients should use SPF finger cot protection as well.
Some clients may be allergic to cyanoacrylate, methacrylate, or other chemicals in gel resin. Patch testing is advised. Red itching, swelling, and burning can occur.
Dry, Brittle Nails
Like any enhancement, hard gel can cause dehydration and brittleness of the natural nails over time. Moisturizing and breaks between sets are key.
Picking off hard gel rather than soaking can take layers of natural nail with it. Acrylic remover won’t break down the gel either.
With proper training and application techniques, the risks of hard gel extensions are quite low. Choosing an experienced nail technician is key to avoiding damage.
How long do hard gel nail extensions last?
I found that Hard gel nail extensions, when applied correctly, can easily last 4-5 weeks.. But after 3 weeks of wearing, the gel extension will need filling.
In fact, your nails will grow and leave a gap at the back of your extensions that will need to be filled.
Now, the longevity of your hard gel will vary depending on:
- The brand of hard gel used – some brands are better than others, keep reading for my recommendations
- How well prepared have the natural nails been?
- How well gel nails were applied and built – having a good structure makes the extensions stronger.
You can click here to read my article 10 Tips to Make Gel Nails Last Longer.
How much do hard gel extensions cost
Hard gel extension can cost anywhere from $45 to $100 or more. It really depends on your location and how much work you want to do on your nails. If you want a lot of nail art and decoration, the price will be higher.
You can click here to learn more about what you can expect to pay for gel nails based on your location.
How long do hard gel extensions last?
Hard Gel Extension manicures can take approximately 60-90 minutes. This varies depending on the design you want and the skill level of your nail technician.
A complete basic set of hard gel extensions with polish takes me about 1 hour. You can click here to learn more about the expected duration of different manicures.
Hard gel nail extensions allow for lengthy, durable, and natural-looking nail enhancements. The rigid yet flexible chemistry makes sculpting easy for a flawless finish. With proper preparation and layering technique, hard gels apply quickly compared to acrylics or other systems. They provide chip-resistant glassy shine that lasts for weeks. While light and comfortable on the nails, hard gels are extremely tough and damage-resistant. However, care must be taken during removal and filing to avoid natural nail trauma. Choosing an experienced technician is key to ensuring proper application and avoiding risks. Overall, hard gel systems provide an excellent alternative for those wanting non-damaging yet strong and stunning nail extensions.
Check out more nail care tips and ideas on our Villa nails blog!